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Warning!!
The statements and
conclusions made in the following tear-down and review
are purely based on the tear-down of a single Benro
KS-2 ballhead and may not be representative of all
of Benro's products. My conclusions drawn from this
tear-down are my conclusions and other users of Benro
products may have come to their own, opposing conclusions.
I am posting this tear-down and review as a service
to my visitors and not as a critique of all Benro
products.
I
have been "taken to task" in several of
the Internet equipment forums for several statements
I have made in this tear-down and review of the Benro
"No GO" BS-2 ball head. Some of these statements
are made tongue-in-cheek and some of these statements
are deadly serious. If you are the sensitive type
who must read "sugar-coated" equipment reviews,
please, do not continue. I use photographic equipment
nearly every day of the week and I call 'em as I see
'em.
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You
can't go on any photography equipment forum on the Internet
without seeing some reference to the "tremendous value"
Benro products represent. For those of you who may not have
heard of Benro, Benro is a Chinese manufacturing company
that pretty blatantly manufactures knock-offs of well known
brands of tripods and tripod heads. Owners of Benro products
swear they are "just as good as the originals"
or "nearly as good as the originals considering the
price". I think Benro owners state this to cover up
their embarrassment at having thrown good money at a bad
product. I didn't intend for my web site to contain product
reviews but I thought someone needs to review this product
in light of what it actually represents...JUNK!
To see
what all the "tremendous value" fuss is about
I decided to order a Benro KS-2 tripod ball head from eBay
merchant "link-delight". I initially was going
to order a Benro carbon fiber tripod but, even though they
are a lot less expensive than Gitzo, I just couldn't justify
the still high price of a tripod just to evaluate a manufacturer.
I paid $121.00US for the KS-2 ball head after shipping from
Hong Kong was included. This certainly is an inexpensive
price for a large ball head and, after reading all the glowing
comments in the various forums, I looked forward to its
arrival.
Benro
ball heads are mostly re-engineered knock-offs of more famous,
and more expensive, brands such as Arca-Swiss, Kirk Enterprises,
and Gitzo. I'm surprised there's not a knock-off of any
Really Right Stuff ball heads yet. To their favor, Benro
uses a quick release clamping system that is compatible
with Arca-Swiss camera plates. The KS series, however, is
sort of a blend between the Kirk ball head and the Arca-Swiss
ball head. Superficially, the KS-2 ball head looks like
an Arca-Swiss ball head but, unlike the Arca-Swiss ball
head, the KS-2 ball head has three separate lock knobs like
the Kirk ball heads. I've had considerable experience with
Arca-Swiss ball heads and didn't really like the tension
adjust incorporated in the single ball lock so I ordered
the KS-2 to have separate lock knobs for tension adjust,
ball lock, and pan lock. Benro claims the KS-2 ball head
can handle loads up to 39 pounds and that it uses an elliptical
ball just like the Arca-Swiss ball heads. Don't believe
them!
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Professionally
packaged...
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...cheesy
quick release camera plate and tightening wrench...
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...OK
documentation if you can read Chinese...
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...comes
with a cool "leather" pouch...
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...it
even looks kind of sexy mounted on the tripod...
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However...
This
is where all similarities between the Benro
KS-2 ball head and a real ball head end!
Caveat
emptor!
Please,
continue reading my review...
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After
a fast 14 days in transit from Hong Kong my Benro KS-2 arrived
at my door. Frankly, the process of purchasing the ball
head went smoothly and professionally, much to the credit
of "link-delight". The KS-2 ball head was packaged
professionally in an attractive box, contained sort of a
luggage tag-sized warranty card, an instruction manual (all
in Chinese!), a wrench (!) to attach the included quick
release mounting plate to your camera, and a leather-like
pouch to cover the ball head. (The wrench should have been
my first warning, second only to the price, that this ball
head was going to be junk.) The ball head, itself, is fairly
impressive at first glance. Exterior machining and finish
looked quite good, not as finely finished as the more expensive
brands, but still impressive at first glance.
Closer inspection revealed a very finely dimpled surface
of the support ball. Hmmm!?
I ignored
the supplied, cheesy camera mounting plate since I am already
heavily invested in the Arca-Swiss style camera mounting
plates and attached the KS-2 ball head to my Gitzo G 1325
tripod. I positioned the ball so that the quick release
clamp was positioned at the top. I figured a good first
test of a ballhead rated to support 39 pounds would be to
attach my Canon EOS 1D MkII body with a Canon EF 70-200mm
f 4L lens to the ball head. I didn't use the tripod collar
on the 70-200mm lens but, rather, I let the lens hang out
the front like someone who would be using a consumer grade
75-300mm lens that is not equipped with a tripod collar.
I spent the next 30 minutes attempting to adjust the ball
tension so that I could position the camera/lens combo,
take my hands off the camera, and have the camera/lens combo
stay put. I never could get the tension right. OK, I guess
I can live with this. I'll just have to keep my hand on
the camera/lens until I lock the ball head in place. After
all, some of the mid-price ball heads suffer from this,
too. Right?
I set
up a composition and went to lock the ball head in place.
If I wasn't already beginning to have bad feelings regarding
the utility of this ball head I was certainly questioning
its utility after trying to lock the ball head in place.
I set the lock tension fairly tight, let go of the camera/lens,
and watched the camera/lens slowly droop down. I repositioned
the camera/lens again, tightened some more, and watched
the camera/lens droop down again, albeit more slowly this
time. This camera/lens combo should have been a breeze to
support with a ball head rated for 39 pounds. I finally
had to crank down the ball lock knob very, very tightly
to keep the camera/lens combo from drooping. However, this
wasn't the worst problem. Read on...
If you
don't use an L-bracket on your camera you need to flop the
ball over on its side to arrange a vertical composition.
Well, I flopped the ball over on its side, arranged a vertical
composition, cranked down on the lock knob as tight as I
could, and watched the camera/lens combo slowly droop downward!
I tried it once again and again the camera/lens combo drooped
downward. I tried it a third time but watched to see if
the ball was rotating in the head. That's what you would
expect. Right? Wrong! The ball was tightly locked but the
camera/lens combo still drooped down. I'll explain why in
a minute. Keep reading...
After
accurately lining up a composition, tightening any of the
lock knobs caused the camera/lens to shift position, especially
the pan lock knob. Tightening the pan lock knob caused the
ball head to rotate as much as 1/8" on the panning
base...every time! A little shift on a cheap to mid-priced
ball head is somewhat to be expected but 1/8" of rotation
caused by tightening the panning lock knob is intolerably
bad. I could try to hold the camera/lens as tightly as possible
to keep the ball head from rotating that 1/8" but tightening
the pan lock knob always caused the ball head
to rotate. It was now time to find out why.

This
is the pan lock screw responsible for causing the
ball head to rotate when the pan lock is tightened.
That rough, flat end grabs and digs into the aluminum
pan base and pan bearing housing. When you turn
the screw to tighten the lock, the screw rotates
the pan base every time! Note, too, the terrible
burring and chip-outs around the screw hole. This
is the result of shoddy workmanship and a poor aluminum
alloy with a very large and weak crystaline structure.
Not good.
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You
can see where the tip of the pan lock screw has
chewed up the aluminum in the panning base and panning
bearing housing. This is the result of locking the
pan rotation about 12 times. How long do you think
this will last before the pan lock becomes useless?
Keep in mind, I just received this head and haven't
even been out in the field using it yet. I'm not
sure I'm going to really trust that the aluminum
alloy used to produce this ball head will be sturdy
enough to support the heavy load for which Benro
rates it.
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Ultimately,
I disassembled the ball head. What a difference between
the exterior finish and the interior finish. The interior
finish is crude, crude, crude. The only internal component
that impressed me was the smoothness of the panning bearing
that supports the panning rotation. The panning rotation
is very smooth, much smoother than any mid-priced ball head
I've used before, and pretty close to the smoothness of
some of the much more expensive name brand ball heads. But
that's it. The rest of the internal components are a joke!
The panning lock is always going to cause the panning base
to rotate. The end of the screw on the panning lock knob
is squared off where it should be round. As the panning
lock knob is tightened, the squared-off end of the screw
digs into the aluminum of the panning base and causes the
panning base to rotate as the screw is rotated to tighten
the lock (see photo, above). If Benro had taken the time
to round the end of the panning lock screw, the panning
base would not rotate when the lock is tightened. Not only
that but, with the squared-off end of the screw, the area
the panning lock screw tightens against is badly gouged
and badly burred after just a few attempts to tighten panning
base. The better brands of ball heads would have used brass
tightening/locking screws and at least a steel collar for
the screw to tighten against. Using steel screws (rounded
or not) against a soft aluminum collar only guarantees that
the aluminum collar will be destroyed quite quickly. This
is an absolutely unforgivable design flaw! Oh, but there
is more. Don't stop reading now...
OK!
I removed the panning base and the panning base bearing
revealing the interior of the ball head body. All of the
holes drilled through the body for the ball lock, ball tension
adjust, and panning lock have chip-outs around them. I have
to question the quality of the aluminum used to build the
ball head body. Drilling quality aluminum alloys will not
cause chipping around the holes. Chip-outs are caused by
poor crystaline structure in the aluminum alloy. Only poor
aluminum alloys will cause chipping or a very, very badly
dulled drill bit. What was even worse, to hide the chip-outs,
Benro painted the chip-outs black! I discovered this when
I cleaned out the interior of the body with alcohol. The
alcohol dissolved the paint!
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Diagram
illustrating how the locking mechanism functions in
a ball head. The tapered tips of the tensioning and
locking screws exert pressure against the tapered
housing of the aluminum ball cup forcing the cup to
squeeze the support ball between the aluminum ball
cup and the shoulder of the ball head housing.
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Here's
a look at the internal workings. Arrow #1 points to
the soft aluminum ball cup. Arrow #2 points to chip-outs
around the ball tensioning screw hole. These occured
after the housing was black anodized. Benro had actually
used black paint to paint over the chip-outs but the
paint came off when I cleaned off the grease with
rubbing alcohol! Arrow #3 points to a gouge in the
aluminum ball cup where I had previously set tension
on the ball head. Pretty shoddy materials and workmanship!
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The
ball locking method employed in most ball heads is relatively
simple (see above). The hole at the top of the ball head
body is slightly smaller than the diameter of the ball.
There is an insert just under this shoulder that is radiused
the same as the ball head and is usually made of some plastic
compound (usually Delrin) that will grip the ball. Below
the ball there is a tapered metal cup that holds some more
plastic grip material that is radiused the same as the radius
of the ball head. The ends of the tension lock screw and
the ball locking screw are tapered to match the taper of
the metal cup. When the tension screw and locking screws
are tightened, the metal cup is forced upward against the
bottom of the ball which pushes the ball against the shoulder
of the body sandwiching the ball between the plastic compound
in the metal cup and the plastic compound in the shoulder
of the body. Pretty simple, really. To save weight, the
ball is hollowed out.
On good
brands of ball heads, the metal cup is made of steel to
withstand gouging and wear from the tapered ends of the
steel tensioning and locking screws tightening against the
metal cup. Not so on the Benro, unfortunately. The metal
cup is made of soft aluminum. (Correction:
In an email to me dated 03/23/2007, Benro brought to my
attention that the metal ball cup is made of a zinc compound.
IMO this is still too soft of a material and is prone to
gouging.) Every time you tighten the ball
tensioner or the ball lock, the aluminum is gouged. The
more times you tighten the knobs, the more the metal cup
will be gouged, eventually becoming so rough that it will
be impossible to lock the ball head in place without the
ball head shifting. This is going to drive a photographer
nuts while attempting to line up a composition. Coming up
next, the coup de grace. You can't stop reading yet...
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This
very inexpensive Giottos ball head has the support
ball and quick release clamp post machined from a
single piece of aluminum, just as they should be.
The end of the post is center-drilled and tapped to
accept a stud that matches in size and thread pitch
a tapped hole in the quick release clamp. The clamp
is attached to the post with a threaded stud. Simple,
strong, and, if the threads have a little lock-tite
on them, there's nothing to come loose and cause unwanted
rotation.
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Instead
of machining the support ball and quick release clamp
post as a single unit, Benro has chosen to make this
crucial section with 5 different parts, all prone
to inadvertant rotation under heavy loads. Should
the Allen head screw loosen the least bit from vibrations,
the ball head will be rendered useless! I could not
tighten this Allen head screw down tight enough to
keep the 1D MkII and 70-200mm lens from rotating when
the tripod head was flopped for a vertical composition.
Remember, this head is supposed to be able to support
39 pounds. No way!!
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Perhaps
the very worst design feature of this ball head, and the
reason the camera/lens combo still droops after the ball
is locked, is due to the extremely poor design of the post
that extends from the ball on which the quick release clamp
is attached. (Refer to illustrations, above.) On good ball
heads, and even some bad ones, the post and ball are machined
from a single piece of aluminum. The post is then center-drilled
and threaded to accept a threaded stud on which to attach
the quick release clamp. This is very strong. Not so Benro...again!
In the Benro head, the hollow ball is drilled and countersunk
slightly and a short length of aluminum tube is press fit
into the drilled hole. The quick release clamp is attached
to the ball by extending an Allen head screw from inside
the ball, through the post, and then screwing the Allen
head screw into another press-fit bushing in the bottom
of the quick release clamp. If the Allen head screw is not
tightened adequately, the quick release plate is able to
loosen and rotate around the post. At some point in the
future that Allen head screw running through the post is
going to loosen requiring the head to be taken apart to
tighten the screw again. In the meantime, if the Allen head
screw loosens it will render the head absolutely useless.
Shame, shame, shame on Benro for adopting such a weak, sloppy
mechanism with which to attach the quick release plate!
After
such a terrible review I can see you all wondering how I
have the Benro KS-2 ball head supporting the Canon EF 500mm
f4L IS lens and Canon EOS 1D MkII camera as shown in the
image, below. Quite simple, really...

I
coated everything that touches the support ball, and coated
everything that can rotate, with a strong, slow-cure epoxy
glue!
The
ball and quick release clamp might as well be welded into
place! :) After this...umm...er..."slight" alteration,
all the KS-2 ball head will be used for is as a panning
bearing for the attached Wimberley Sidekick gimbel support.
I was originally going to chuck the ball head in the waste
can and eat the $121.00US but I really liked the smooth
panning bearing! :)
Benro
misses the mark very badly through the use of inferior materials
and poor workmanship on the internal components of the ball
head. The only steel to be found in this ball head are the
locking/tensioning screws and the little screws that hold
the ball head body to the base. Bearing surfaces against
which tensioning/locking screws bear should have been made
of steel and the tensioning/locking screws should have been
made of brass to avoid gouging bearing surfaces. Benro avoids
the use of steel because it is more expensive than aluminum
and it is harder to machine. Production costs and labor
costs are much cheaper if a manufacturer only has to deal
with one or two materials. Sadly, you, the consumer, aren't
going to see these defects unless you tear apart your own
Benro ball head. I think Benro is going to get away with
selling a ton of these ball heads to the American market
becuase 1) the ball heads are so cheap, and 2) few people
are going to be willing to send a poorly built, defective
ball head, given the initial cheap price, all the way back
to China for warranty repair/replacement.
I am
glad I did not order a tripod. If Benro is going to take
a simple ball head design and produce such an abominable
product, imagine what they will do to a more complex product
like a tripod. If you are considering purchasing a Benro
ball head, let me steal a line from "Monty Python and
the Search for the Holy Grail"..."Run away! Run
away!". Save your pennies for a real ball head and
don't waste your money on a Benro ball head. Some of you
may get lucky and buy one that functions almost well enough
at first use. However, given all the design and manufacturing
shortcomings, the Benro ball heads will never stand up to
continued use. Benro. Just say, "No!"
On
03/23/2007 I received an email from "Kimberly"
at Benro discussing my evaluation of the Benro KS-2 ball
head. In the email, Kimberly expressed a desire to review
the design and materials used in the KS-2 with the possibility
of improving the quality of the KS-2 ball head. As further
details become available I will make updates to this review.
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